Destino

With its clubby, congenial atmosphere, Destino seems like the local restaurant that's been around for years. It's only been open for three, but the meatballs have already become legendary, and live jazz at the bar helps to nurture a loyal clientele. (What a rarity live music has become in this city!)

We were lucky to get in without a reservation; a large birthday party was dispersing. The menu contained all the traditional Italian favorites: veal marsala, chicken cacciatore, scampi, pasta with clams in red or white sauce. One of us pleaded for fried zucchini, although it wasn't on the menu, and a large, lightly-fried portion soon appeared. Our appetizers also included a garlicky Caesar salad, a salad of beefsteak mozzarellas and fresh mozzarella, and those delicious "Mario's Meatballs"... plump specimens smothered in a tasty tomato sauce. (I looked around, and almost everyone had some on their table.)

I had been leaning towards pasta (you can order spaghetti, angel hair, linguine, orecchiette, rigatoni, fusilli, penne, fedelini or shells!), but instead went with Dover sole meuniere, which arrived with lots of crisp slivers of toasted almonds. Also on the agenda were a gargantuan veal chop and branzino with asparagus.

We finished with 20-layer cream crepe cake and mixed berries with fresh vanilla whipped cream. Destino really knows how to please a customer! Make a reservation; you might not get lucky like we did.

Destino: 891 1st Ave., (212) 751-0700.